I hitchhiked in Israel. I hitchhiked in Palestine. I hitchhiked in Russia. I hitchhiked in Ukraine. Do you know what all of those places have in common? Every single person I met there was awesome. Often we had lifestyles, beliefs, or opinions that contradicted each other, but that was no Continue Reading
Floating Prison Has Nice Sunsets
[May 21st, 2024] “Come to our office by 6pm tomorrow to book and pay. I’ll send the location. The ferry will leave early the next morning,” said a woman’s voice on the other end of the phone in clear and fluent Russian. I was excited to have found someone who Continue Reading
A Journey Far Away and Close Within
This article is about my personal journey and how being so far away and disconnected from the rest of my life put me in the place to grow internally. It was written while crossing the North Atlantic from Greenland to Spain, after a month of sailing along the coast of Continue Reading
Thirst for Adventure
This article is about my internal struggle to find balance between a baseline need for stability, an addiction to the thrill of adventure, and the feeling that nothing is ever quite enough. It was written while sailing away from Greenland after a month-long adventure that pushed the bounds of my Continue Reading
Icebergs
A series of haikus about icebergs. Icebergs are really not ice. Snow compressed over millions of years. Snow falls, and more snow.Weight of snow pushes down on the snow underneath. Snowflakes break down and compress together into hard substance like ice. More snow falls, pushes ice downhill like a river. Continue Reading
Polar Bear
That white rock appears to be moving. That’s a fluffy rock. Oh shit. That rock has legs. And eyes. And a very long neck. The polar bear looks up as I emerge from around the cliff. We share eye contact for an endless moment. It lowers its gaze and continues Continue Reading
Greenland: The Last Frontier
Scoresby Sound, Greenland. It’s a balmy July day. I mean that somewhat sarcastically—we are in the Arctic—but it feels downright tropical compared to the previous 2 days of gale-force winds and spiteful waves since we set off from Iceland’s distant Westfjords region on a 1-month expedition to Greenland’s rugged east Continue Reading
Surviving the Pamir Highway
This article is the fifth and final installation in the Pamir Highway series. Despite the howling wind and frigid temperatures, Detti and I slept like logs, having just reached the highest elevation that either of us had ever been to—with fully loaded bikes. Enjoying a leisurely 11am start, the road, Continue Reading
Pushing up the Pamir Highway
Day 7. With a drawn-out yawn and an extensive stretch, my eyelids slowly peeled apart to reveal the bowed wooden skeleton and intricately embroidered canvas surface of a yurt. Plopped in the front yard of Pamir Hotel, the five cots lining the yurt’s circular floor provided a comfortable nighttime refuge Continue Reading
Cycling the Pamir Highway
Day 1. The first afternoon on the Pamir Highway was quite a bit less shitty than expected (pun intended). After a painful morning of food poisoning, I had very little left in me, and only had to dismount from my bike to poop in the bushes 3 or 4 times [disclaimer: Continue Reading